You will need a 90 degrees after TDC pin VM.1089 and cam shaft locking pins VM.1053 and VM.1052. Or you can make your own by grinding down bolts they don't look as nice but they work the same. The first bolt was a 8mm x 1.25 x 65mm flanged bolt it can be any thread the head had to be ground down to get it to slide into the housing. The next two bolts was 10mm x 1.0 x 50mm x fine Thread hex bolts with threads going all the way to the head. Then I ground off 40mm of thread from tip so a nut will slide free for the for the first 40mm of the bolt then grind down 10mm off each of the tips to 6.35mm use two flat washers on them bringing there length to 45.6mm They are interchangeable. mine ended up a little different from one another because I found that I did not need to take so much off the tip...
Other tools you will need.
Now lets get started first disconnect the battery...
Then remove the plastic grill. Its very easy to take it off this will keep it from getting scratched up.
It just snaps off along the top no bolts...
After you get the top loose it just tilts out...
Set it aside some place safe...
Remove the oil cap...
Pull strait up on the engine cover and remove it...
Put the oil cap back on...
Remove the upper radiator hose and air hose. Cover up turbo and the intercooler so nothing gets into it. I use plastic and rubber bands so no coolant gets into it...
Now you need to take off the fan clutch.
You will need a large wrench and an Allen wrench and some kind of hammer to brake it loose.
\I used a palm nailer to brake it loose it.
When you get it off just leave it in the shroud they have to come out together.
Placement of the Allen wrench and hidden bolt behind fan pulley.
Cut the zip ties off the freon line and overflow line.
Lift them up and out of the way.
Remove the two bolts holding the shroud lift it up.
The bottom is held in place by this slot and groove it just pulls out...
Remove the fan and shroud carefully don't drag the fan against the radiator.
remove the serpentine belt and Tensioner Pulley unbolt the altimeter you can leave the wires on just move aside so you can install the locking pin. remove the idler pulleys TURN THEM CLOCKWISE TO GET THEM OFF. remove the crankshaft pulley and the fan pulley remember there is a hidden bolt behind the pulley and the power steering pump pulley.
remove the wires from the air box and thermostat housing.
Disconnect the air hose and pull up on the air box remove it...
If the grommet comes out put it back into the finder it makes it easer to put the air box back later.
some grease on the grommets will make it easier to reinstall the air box...
Now remove the viscous heater and all the hoses be sure the turbo is covered so nothing gets into it.
Remove heat shield.
After all the coolant is drained from the hoses you can remove the outer timing belt cover.
Find and remove the plugs in the valve cover. I had to use vice grips to brake them loose the Allen wrench was striping out.
Turn the engine clockwise only.
Remove the oil cap.
Using a light you can see the pin hole in the intake cam shaft as it comes around when it gets straight up you can make a mark with a sharpie on the cam pulley this will make it easer to tell where you are.
It says in the repear manual that this mark may not be correct so check it before you use it. It might not line up the first time you find 90 deg after TDC if its not lining up just keep turning it only lines up on every 3rd turn of the cam shafts, if it will not line up after 3 full turns then you will have to mark the fuel pump sprocket before you remove the belt. Mine lined up after a few turns. so I used it. The pump will move when you take off the belt so don't remove the timing belt without either marking it or finding that you can use the mark. Do not remove the fuel pump sprocket its not necessary to get the back cover off.
After you get it all lined up you have to install the locking pin vm.1052 goes by the alternator.
VM.1053 is just behind the thermostat housing about in the middle of the valve cover. After getting the cam locking pins in with the fuel pump either lined up or marked you will need to jack the jeep up enough to get under it USING JACK STANDS not just the jack.
Now install VM.1089 into the flywheel located under the jeep you don't have to take off the skid plate its kind of hard to see so a good light will help it goes in the housing at the back of the engine where the transmission bolts on you can see the tail pipe to the left of the picture.
Now brake loose the cam bolts. Do not use the locking pins to brake them loose if you brake one off in the cam you will not have fun getting it out. I used a VW tool I had it and it worked great.
Just loosen up the bolts don't take them off yet.
Now remove the bolt on the tensioner and the tensioner then the timing belt and the cam sprockets and the two idler pulleys TURN THEM CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE THEM.
Remove the back cover.
These bolts are hard to see from above.
This one you cant see from above its by the the tensioner you will have to find it by feel.
Now on to the water pump...
You have to remove 4 nuts to get it off 3 are easy. If someone has a tool that can reach the nut with the red arrow I will update this but for now here is haw I did it...The top nut you can get with a socket. But the bottom nut I had to use a flex gear wrench and a adjustable wrench to get it off.
The gear wrench was not strong enough to so it is slightly bent now but it did get the nut off.
The two on the front look like you could get them with a open end wrench but the nuts just started to round off so it took a different approach.
So I just took the pump apart and then I had access to get them off with a 6 point socket. Replace the nuts with new ones and clean the old gasket off. I use copper cote when reassembling on gaskets and hoses. If I was not replacing the hoses then it would be easer to just take the new pump apart and bolt the front of the new one onto the back of the old one. It would be nice if they sold just the front half with a new gasket I am not sure if the gasket would work after the new pump was taken apart all of the moving parts are in the front half so it would be just like replacing the hole thing. next time I will try to find that gasket and if I can then I will leave the back on and all the hoses would not have to come off and the air box and air hoses could stay in place...
This hose is under the water pump and would be very hard to replace without taking out the pump so even if you don't replace all the hoses you should get this one its a cheep hose and it would be a lot of work to replace it later.
Well its all apart now and you just have to put it back together. So reinstall the water pump only connect the bottom hose.
Install the back cover and the cam sprockets leave them loose then the idler pulleys and the tensioner then the timing belt. Not all torque wrench's work backwards keep this in mind if when you put on the idler pulleys.
Make sure the fuel pump is aliened with the timing marks then using a pin wrench adjust the tensioner so the spring lines up with the notch. If you have a pin wrench from a VW TDI it will fit your jeep.
Then torque the cam sprockets...
Do not use the locking pins to torque the bolts.
Remove the locking pins don't forget this one.
Turn the engine one full turn and reinstall the locking pins. If any of them don't go in you will have to line it back up.
Check the tensioner it will pull the slack out of the belt and will most likely have to be readjusted.
Adjust it so it lines back up.
Remove the locking pins and turn the engine till the fuel pump timing marks line up with 90 deg after TDC should be two revulsions then reinstall the pins and do the final check. If they don't line up then you will have to lock it down and pull the belt line up the pump and start over. If they look ok then put the cover back on put all the pulleys and alternator the serpentine belt back on then the fan clutch and shroud reconnect all the hoses Install the air box and air hoses reconnect the wires. If you are using your old coolant hoses be sure to use something like copper cote to seal them up or they will leek.
After you have it back together fill it with 50/50 coolant / water open the valve on top of the radiator to let the air out of the system if you don't do this last step it can get an air bubble inside the water pump and over heat even thou you have coolant in it. Water pumps don't pump air very well small bubbles will work there way out but large ones can do bad things. leave the valve open till you see coolant bubbling out. Start it up and watch watch to see if the readatore heats up...
By the way my water pump was just starting to leek out of the weep hole at 101k It could not have made it to 200k I don't think any water pump would make it so plan on doing the water pump and the timing belt. the old belt had one small crack its hard to see it in the picture but its there and it had a small amount fibers where the rubber had worn down it did not look new and that small crack could have became a big problem...
I am not a mechanic so you should always check your repair manual. This is just how I did my timing belt change and water pump. If you decide to use this info to change your timing belt and water pump then you assume all risk...
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